Two and a half years ago I had a Teragren solid strip vertical grain bamboo floor installed on the first floor of my townhouse. About 12 – 18 months after install I started to notice cupping of the boards. The problem has gotten worse over time but I’m not yet experiencing loose boards. I’m currently in discussions with the installer regarding how to resolve the issue.
The floor was installed with a glue-down application onto the concrete slab. The installer said they used an adhesive that also acted as a moisture barrier. The warrenty was for three years but the installer has said it doesn’t cover moisture penetration. Clearly, the floor is getting cupped by moisture penetration coming up through the slab.
My question is who is at fault for this issue? Is it the adhesive manufacturer, the flooring manufacturer, the installer or myself? The installer has told me: "This issue (moisture) was not evident at the time of my visual inspection or measured at the time of installation and if it were there, then we would have not installed your floor." I have asked the installer what tests they ran and what were the results but I haven’t received any details. They are a highly reputable installer that is local to my area. They are not a chain or a low-cost company. I chose them because of their reputation in the local community. That said, they’re only offering to replace the floor "at cost" as opposed to free of charge. Is it unreasonable of me to expect a free replacement?
The installer has told me they contacted the adhesive manufacturer and the flooring manufacturer and neither is accepting responsibility (no surprise there). Is it worthwhile for me to pursue further discussions with the installer? Should I call a lawyer or my insurance company? Any advice would be appreciated.
Sorry about your floor.
It really pays to be informed about all projects before you hire anyone to do a job for you and spend money on materials. It seems to me that if you have moisture under your slab, that you could have found that out before you put down anything. Water under the bridge so they say.
If it were me, I would remove the floor.
I would not blame the installer, or the manufacturer, or the glue company.
Noone is to blame.
(except you) because you didn’t thoroughly check for moisture before you decided to put down a floor.
This chocolate brown 12 MM handscraped laminate has been a top seller over the past year. This popular look has been featured numerous times on the home improvement shows…where you contrast the dark chocolate brown color with pastels such as yellow and blue (their paint colors not shown in this video). In addition to the laminate floor and new base board throughout the house we also performed a fireplace makeover. Give JJ @ call at 510.228.8315 for a design consultation or to request a bid in the bay area, ca. We cover fremont, san jose, oakland, pleasanton, dublin, livermore, union city, hayward, milpitas, san leandro and other surrounding cities.
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Six months ago we went to a local flooring store and purchased bamboo flooring and installation.
We have now had problems with the flooring, and in our bathroom the installer failed to fit the toilet back properly, causing it to leak and ruin the floor.
Now the store says it is not their problem and it’s the installer’s problem. (They must sub contract the installations out to installers.)
I maintain that as we paid the store for the flooring product AND installation, it is their responsibility.
Could we successfully pursue the store through small claims court?
I worked for a flooring store and the store hires the sub-contractors to do the work. If the installer did not fit the toilet right, he is responsible to replace and reinstall new flooring. You can contact the store and work with them, they have no responsibility though.
After installation I notice some area are not level. When I walk on some places, I can feel it bounce back. what is the best way of fixing this, without re-doing the whole installation? Thanks.
I know that I did not do a good job on leveling the floor before installation. Thats why there are low area. I was think of drilling a hole around the low are and pump some caulk to fill up the low area and just fill the hole with wood putty. Would this work?
this is not a do it yourself job if yoou want a nice floor…a pro would find the high spot and split the difference in floor height so the eye can’t pick up the difference but to do this the low floor is gonna have to come up be re shimmed and re-installed…you could attempt it yourself but will take you forever and yoou might damage the bamboo finish and might even tottally mess up the job?? if youo dont want a headache dont bang youor head against this floor …hire a pro…i am sure its not a huge floor so should cost that much to adjust the sub floor and re install whats taken up. if i knew where you were i might be able to recommend someone but i don’t if your not in NYC area
Bamboo Flooring(http://www.floorproducer.com),JadeMask Flooring Products Group is a professional manufacturer of bamboo flooring(http://www.floorproducer.com), bamboo floor, bamboo panel and bamboo furniture in China.
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Splitting bamboo to make bamboo flooring on a jungle survival course in Khao Sok National Park, southern Thailand with PaddleAsia.
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Ask This Old House 7×26 (3/3) Leaky PVC Drain Trap / Installing Bamboo Flooring
Downloads for this can be found here:
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The Official Site can be found here:
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The floors in two bedrooms in my 80 year old house have 60’s era 10" square linoleum tile tightly glued to solid pine subfloors. Seems to me like a perfect substrate for click-lock wood flooring. I’ve seen types that have the cushion backing already applied to each board section — how do you feel about those compared to the type where you have to roll out the liner before laying the boards? Also, I’d like a good product (don’t mind paying for the value) that’s going to be stable, consistent in color and preferably low solvent emission. Any particular brands you’ve worked with that you recommend highly. I’m thinking I should go engineeered rather than solid for lower cost and the fact that these will not be high-wear areas. The rooms will have large area rugs and not get heavy traffic so wear isn’t a big issue.
I’ve been underwhelmed by the choices at the building centers but have heard mixed reviews of the products from specialists like Lumber Liquidators / Bellawood. After doing much on-line research and visiting some showrooms I’m still somewhat confused. I’m not interested in bamboo — the rest of the house has nice old long-leaf pine floors with a red oak look and I’d like to keep that appearance to suit the vintage of the house (Arts and Crafts bungalow).
I might be be installing this myself though I do have a good remodelling contractor I may pay to do it. Though I have installed solid oak tongue and groove in the past (and drilled and ring-nailed the tongue as I went) that’s a lot of work, even if I buy or rent a pneumatic nailer this time. I would love to just be able to click it without nails or glue. Any problems with that type of completely floating product or do you feel that nailed or glued installations are better?
I would welcome any advice or tips on product selection and installation from any of the pros on here.
P.S. Perhaps I was not clear on this: I do NOT want laminate. I like it for countertops but think it looks terrible on floors and, based on what I have seen in other people’s homes, it holds up poorly.
I want an engineered wood product — veneered real wood on a substrate,
I am in building maintenance and I endorse and have used Bruce hardwood flooring products. Be sure to use the underlayment. You have a different problem though and that is the existing floor you have may be asbestos laden. By your description of the age of your house and the size of the tiles it fits the era when that was common to use in flooring. You can remove it your self but be very careful that dust and debris does not contaminate the rest of the house. If you don’t remove it and cover it up with the new flooring it will still be a disclosure issue should you ever decide to sell. Professional companies can be hired to remove it and guarantee a safe removal but they charge an arm an a leg. Also by not removing it you will have a raised floor that will be harder to match in the hallways. Bruce flooring had a video for do it your selfers contact them and see if it’s still available.
Good luck!
Bamboo floor installation
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Two and a half years ago I had a Teragren solid strip vertical grain bamboo floor installed on the first floor of my townhouse. About 12 – 18 months after install I started to notice cupping of the boards. The problem has gotten worse over time but I’m not yet experiencing loose boards. I’m currently in discussions with the installer regarding how to resolve the issue.
The floor was installed with a glue-down application onto the concrete slab. The installer said they used an adhesive that also acted as a moisture barrier. The warrenty was for three years but the installer has said it doesn’t cover moisture penetration. Clearly, the floor is getting cupped by moisture penetration coming up through the slab.
My question is who is at fault for this issue? Is it the adhesive manufacturer, the flooring manufacturer, the installer or myself? The installer has told me: "This issue (moisture) was not evident at the time of my visual inspection or measured at the time of installation and if it were there, then we would have not installed your floor." I have asked the installer what tests they ran and what were the results but I haven’t received any details. They are a highly reputable installer that is local to my area. They are not a chain or a low-cost company. I chose them because of their reputation in the local commu
The best backup for making a claim against the installer is to have the installation instructions provided with the flooring…..that said, it is unusual, if not ill advised, to install wood planks of any kind directly to the concrete. Normal installation requires one of two methods: One is to precover the entire floor with plywood over a vapor barrier (such as felt paper or polyethelene) or install sleepers over a vapor barrier. The second method isfastening flat, dry, preservative-treated 2" x 4" planks in random lengths (18′ to 48") and can also serve as a nailing base.
Also, if the floor was installed before the flooring had time to acclimate to the room’s temerature (usually a week prior to installation, this can cause problems, such as cupping.
Also, if the floor was installed right up to the walls with no room to expand and contract, this can cause cupping. Installation requirements by the manufacturer of the bamboo flooring is the key to determining if the installation was botched.